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Troubleshooting With Spa Doc
There are a lot of things
that can go wrong with a hot tub...of course there's no way we could
give tips for every single potential problem, but here's a list of common
symptoms we've seen over the years, and what you might be able to do to get your
spa running again before calling our service professional. Please keep in mind
that these aren't the only possible explanations for these symptoms.
Look through the symptoms listed below and either click on one or scroll down
for our suggested course of action!
Please note: As with a great many electronic devices and computers, many
electrical spa problems can be corrected just by restarting the system!
If you have any questions
about the electrical requirements for your spa, please visit our
NEC's Electrical Requirements page.
These are suggestions only: If you do not feel qualified
or able to diagnose your spa's problem, STOP and call our licensed
service professional. We are qualified and equipped to handle spa problems.
Symptom:
Nothing is operating, though
power seems to be getting to my spa.
Possible diagnosis:
Access Door Open
Some models will not operate if
the door which affords access to the spa's equipment pack is open...often there
is a switch attached to the small magnets that hold the door shut, and until
those magnets contact each other, nothing will work.
Suggested course of action:
Close that door!
Alternate possibilities:
Hi-Limit switch tripped
off; Timer off; GFCI Breaker on Equipment Pack off; Fuse blown; Faulty Door
Switch
Symptom:
I've drained, cleaned and refilled my spa, and now when I turn it on, the
pump makes noise but doesn't seem to engage...no water flow, and the jets won't
come on.
Possible diagnosis:
Air Lock
When a spa is emptied and
refilled, air is frequently trapped in the plumbing. Since a spa's equipment
needs to have water in it to operate, your motors won't pump when there's air
trapped in them. Fortunately, once this air is released from the system,
everything should work properly.
Suggested courses of action (one or all of these suggestions might be
necessary: try to run your spa after trying each one):
-
If your spa's Filter is in
a sealed Filter Housing, there should be a small black pressure release valve
directly on top of the housing. Open this valve and there should be the sound of
hissing air: keep open until water starts to come out, then close the valve.
-
Force water directly into
your spa's jets with a garden hose, holding the hose directly but gently up
against each jet for 20-30 seconds.
-
Depending on your spa's
system, there might be a pipe attached to the highest point of the equipment
pack. This pipe should be affixed with a black or white plastic Union Nut, which you
should be able to loosen and tighten by hand; make sure the power to your spa
is off before trying this. Loosen this nut and listen for
hissing air. Again, once water starts coming out, (do not let any water spray on
Equipment Pack or Pump Motors), retighten the nut by hand. Be
careful not to overtighten the nut, as it will break or damage the piping.
Symptom:
The spa isn't heating, or the water is a lot cooler than it used to be, but
everything else seems operational.
Possible diagnosis:
Dirty Filter
Your spa's water passes through
the filter before it moves on to the heater. If water flow is restricted by a
dirty filter or debris in the Filter Housing, the heater may not operate.
Suggested course of action:
Remove your filter cartridge for cleaning: carefully check the filter
housing area for any debris, such as leaves. Visit our Filter Care page for more
detailed instructions on cleaning your filter.
Alternate possibilities: Faulty Thermostat or Temperature Sensor; one
functioning Pressure or Flow Switch
Symptom:
The water got very hot
but then everything just shut down...now the spa won't turn on, although power
seems to be getting to it.
Possible Diagnosis:
Tripped Hi-Limit Switch
A water temperature of over 105°
Fahrenheit is unsafe and unhealthy for spa users. Your spa has a sensor
called a Hi-Limit, which is designed to shut the spa down if an unsafe
temperature is reached, before the equipment is damaged.
Suggested course of action:
Some spas have a Hi-Limit Reset
button, located somewhere on the equipment pack, which is designed to reset the
Hi-Limit after it has tripped. It can be black or red, square or
cylindrical...sometimes it's even hidden towards the back.
To reset this type of Hi-Limit: Press this button, and you should be
rewarded with a SNAP sound, which is the sound of the switch resetting.
(Note: Water temperature must be lower than 100° to manually reset
Hi-Limit)
If this works and your spa is running again, please keep in mind that something
caused it to trip, which may need to be addressed: The Hi-Limit Sensor or
Temperature Sensor may need to be replaced, or your Filter may just need a
thorough cleaning. Also note that if your Hi-Limit trips and needs to be reset
several times, it will probably need to be replaced, as frequent tripping can
cause it to melt and distort.
Note: Most newer spas (with electronic controls) have an automatically
resetting Hi-Limit Sensor: Water temperature must still drop below 100° and
power to the spa will need to be turned off for a couple of minutes to reboot
the system.
If Hi-Limit or System will not reset, your Sensor or Switch may be faulty.
Symptom:
Nothing is operating, and I'm
seeing an error message on my control panel.
There are as many different error messages as there are different brands of
spas. Some refer to a specific issue ("OH" for overheat), while some are
catch-all messages for a variety of problems ("FLO" for...lots of things!).
Refer to your spa's owner's manual for guidance. If you no longer have your
owner's manual, many spa manufacturers now have manuals available at their
websites...or you can contact us and we can try to
help!
Symptom:
My spa's pump seems to be surging.
Possible Diagnosis:
Water Level Too Low
Suggested course of action:
Keeping your spa's water at it's proper level is important. Generally, a spa's
water level should be about halfway up the filter opening. Add water as needed.
Water loss can be due to leaks, but a certain amount of evaporation is also
unavoidable. Keep an eye on your spa's water level, and be sure to test your
water's chemistry regularly! Visit our Basic Water Care
page for tips.
Possible Diagnosis:
Clogged Suction Fitting/Clogged
Pump/Obstruction at Pump Impeller
Suggested course of action:
Suction Fitting: Your spa has suction fittings,
usually located in the spa's footwell, through which water circulates. Check
these fittings for blockage. Some spa manufacturers affix fabric "socks"
over these fittings for added filtration...these frequently get clogged, but can
usually be removed for cleaning and reattached.
Filter: Check and clean your Filter. Visit our
Filter Care page for tips!
Pump Impeller: Close Pump and shut off valves or drain Spa; Loosen Pump
Union attached to suction end of Pump and check for debris. Pump may have to be
removed for access to suction end.
Symptom:
My spa is overheating.
Possible diagnosis:
Dirty Filter
Most spa's water passes through the filter
before it moves on to the heater. If water flow is restricted by a dirty filter
or debris in the Filter Housing, the heater will not operate properly.
Suggested course of action:
Remove your filter cartridge for cleaning: carefully check the filter
housing area for any debris, such as leaves. Visit our Filter Care page for more
detailed instructions on cleaning your filter.
Possible diagnosis:
Bad Thermostat or Hi-Limit Switch
If a spa's Thermostat and
Hi-Limit Temperature Sensors are not
working properly, it can think that the spa is overheating, when in fact
the water temperature is within an acceptable range. The alternate is also true,
that your spa's water can rise without the spa's Hi-Limit kicking out, if the
Thermostat is inoperable. We suggest using a floating thermometer as a backup,
so that you can have a backup for getting an accurate read of your water
temperature. If you suspect that your spa's
Thermostat or Hi-Limit are inoperable, please do not use your spa and contact
your service professional immediately.
Symptom:
My spa trips the GFCI
Disconnect or Main Breaker in my house.
Possible Diagnosis:
Spas trip breakers for a variety of
reasons. Sometimes water is inadvertently splashed onto electrical components,
sometimes a breaker is faulty sometimes a sensor is sending a false
reading...there are many possibilities. If your spa is frequently tripping a
breaker, it likely needs a visit from your service professional. What is often
helpful, however, is isolating the problem. If your breaker is tripping, try to
tie it to a specific action: Does it trip immediately when you turn the spa on?
When you turn on the heater or jets? When it goes into a filter cycle? Does the spa work normally for a few
minutes and then trip the breaker? Any clue you can relate to your service
professional will be helpful.
Please note:
According to the
National
Electric Code, all 240v hot tubs operating in the United States must be
hard-wired to the power supply, and be connected to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit
Interrupter) Breaker, with a Service Disconnect located within sight of the
spa's users, but no closer than five feet from the water's edge. 120v hot tubs may use GFCI cord, plugged into its own
grounded outlet. If you are unsure about the setup of your spa's
electrical system, contact your spa service professional or an electrician.
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Having a problem that's not listed here?
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and describe it to us...we might be able to help!
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